Classic Quiche Lorraine Recipes: Julia Child vs. Elizabeth David (No Cheese, Just Tradition)

Julia Child’s Version

(from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 1961)

Ingredients (serves 4–6)

Pastry:

• 280 g pastry flour (about 2 cups)

• ¼ tsp salt (1.25 ml)

• A pinch of sugar

• 115 g cold butter (8 tbsp), cut into small pieces

• 38 g cold vegetable shortening (3 tbsp), in small pieces

• 60 ml cold water (¼ cup), more if needed

• A small knob of butter (for greasing the tin)

• 1 beaten egg (for brushing crust)

Filling:

• 6–8 slices thick-cut bacon, diced

• 120 ml cold water (½ cup)

• 3 eggs, lightly beaten

• 360 ml heavy cream

• ½ tsp salt (2.5 ml)

• A pinch of nutmeg

• A pinch of freshly ground black pepper

Optional garnish:

• 2 slices cooked, crumbled bacon

• Chives

Method:

1. Pastry preparation: Mix flour, salt, and sugar. Add butter and shortening, working into a crumbly texture. Add cold water gradually until a cohesive dough forms. Shape into a ball, wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (or overnight). Roll out and line a 25 cm tart or quiche tin. Prick with a fork, brush edges with egg. Blind bake with weights for 18–20 min. Remove weights, bake 3–5 min more until lightly golden.

2. Filling: Blanch bacon in cold water, bring to a boil for 5 min. Drain, brown in a skillet, then drain again. Spread over the pre-baked crust. Beat eggs, cream, salt, nutmeg, and pepper. Pour over bacon.

3. Baking: Preheat oven to 190 °C (375 °F). Bake for 30–35 min, until puffed and golden. Let cool slightly before unmolding and serving.

Historical Note (Elizabeth David):
In French Provincial Cooking (1960), Elizabeth David strongly argued that true quiche Lorraine does not contain cheese. She criticized Parisian cooks for adding cheese out of convenience or cost-cutting, which altered the original balance of egg, cream, and bacon. Mastering this simplicity, she insisted, was a sign of real culinary discipline.

In summary: Julia Child offers a refined, custardy version—without cheese—featuring pre-cooked bacon and buttery shortcrust. Elizabeth David remains faithful to tradition with a minimalist, purist approach.

Elizabeth David’s Version

(from French Provincial Cooking, 1960)

Ingredients (serves 6–8)

Shortcrust pastry:

• 250 g flour

• 125 g cold butter, diced

• 1 egg

• A pinch of salt

• A little cold water, if needed

Filling:

• 200 g smoked bacon or pork belly (cut into thin strips)

• 3 large eggs

• 250 ml heavy cream

• Salt, freshly ground black pepper

• A pinch of grated nutmeg (optional)

Method:

1. Pastry preparation: Combine flour and salt. Rub in cold butter until crumbly. Add egg and a little cold water to bind. Form a dough, roll out, and line a 25 cm tart tin. Prick base with a fork. Chill for at least 30 min to prevent shrinkage.

2. Blind baking: Preheat oven to 180 °C (350 °F). Line pastry with parchment and weights or dried beans. Bake 15–20 min, then remove weights and bake 5–10 min more to lightly brown.

3. Filling: Sauté bacon strips until just crisp. Drain excess fat. Beat eggs and cream in a bowl. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg if using. Stir in bacon.

4. Assembly and baking: Pour filling into the pre-baked crust. Bake at 180 °C (350 °F) for 30–40 min, until set and golden. Cool slightly before serving.

David’s Advice:
No cheese, ever. Cheese, even grated or sliced, dulls the delicate flavor of cream and pork. She emphasized not overcooking the filling—it should remain creamy and tender.

Historical/Philosophical Notes:
Elizabeth David considered quiche Lorraine a humble regional dish, born from rural simplicity and quality ingredients. She defended it from modern adaptations (especially the addition of cheese), which, in her view, compromised its identity. Her version stands for culinary authenticity over convenience.