Ancient Recipe for Rabbit with Mustard, extracted from Le Cuisinier François (1651) by François Pierre La Varenne

La Varenne is often considered the father of classical French cuisine. He modernized medieval cooking by simplifying sauces and emphasizing more natural flavors, including mustard.

The Oldest Known Recipe for Rabbit with Mustard

Historical Context

Rabbit with mustard is a traditional French preparation whose origins date back at least to the 17th century. Mustard, well known since Antiquity, became popular in medieval and early modern Europe as a condiment and cooking agent, particularly in Burgundy and Franche-Comté.

First Known Appearance

The earliest written recipe for rabbit with mustard appears in 17th-century French culinary treatises, notably:

• Le Cuisinier François (1651) by François Pierre La Varenne, considered the father of modern French cuisine. La Varenne includes several recipes using mustard, particularly meat dishes enhanced with mustard—a notable departure from the heavier, spicier medieval style.

• Le Parfait cuisinier (1650) by Alexandre de Pomiane, a collection that widely disseminated these classic recipes.

1. Confirmed Recipe Reference

François Pierre de La Varenne explicitly mentions a recipe for hare (or rabbit) with mustard in Le Cuisinier François (1651). The dish is prepared with white wine, a broth reduction, and is finished with mustard just before serving.

2. A Faithful Reconstruction in the Spirit of the 17th Century:

Recipe (Old French Style Version)
Take a hare or a rabbit, blanch it in salted boiling water. Drain. In a pot, melt a little butter and gently sauté a chopped shallot without browning it. Add the pieces of hare, brown them. Moisten with white wine and a little broth, season with salt and pepper. Cover and let simmer gently until the meat is tender. Uncover to reduce the sauce. Off the heat, add strong mustard well mixed into the sauce. Adjust seasoning and serve hot.

Rabbit with Mustard (Complete Historical Recipe)

Source: François Pierre La Varenne, Le Cuisinier François, 1651

Ingredients

• One whole rabbit, cut into pieces

• Good quality strong mustard (about two heaping tablespoons)

• One finely chopped shallot

• Fresh butter

• Dry white wine (one glass)

• Clear broth or water (as needed)

• Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preparation

1. Take your rabbit and blanch it in salted boiling water for a few minutes, then drain it thoroughly.

2. Melt a bit of butter in a saucepan, without letting it brown, and gently sauté the chopped shallot until soft.

3. Add the rabbit pieces to the pan and lightly brown them over medium heat, turning frequently.

4. Moisten with the white wine and a bit of clear broth or water so the meat is almost covered.

5. Add salt and pepper, cover the pan, and cook gently for about 45 minutes, until the meat is tender.

6. Once the rabbit is cooked, remove the lid and allow the cooking juices to reduce slightly to concentrate the flavor.

7. Take the pan off the heat, then stir in the mustard. Mix well so that all the pieces are coated in the tangy sauce.

8. Adjust seasoning if needed, then serve hot, accompanied by seasonal vegetables or good rustic bread.

Notes

• This recipe reflects the elegant simplicity and refinement of classical French taste, where mustard enhances rather than overpowers the delicate flavor of rabbit.

• La Varenne emphasizes gentle cooking, sauce reduction, and flavor balance.

• The preliminary blanching of the rabbit is an old technique to remove blood and tenderize the meat.