Veal Blanquette à la Financière in Vol-au-Vent with Truffles and Sweetbreads
Urbain Dubois & Émile Bernard
(La Cuisine classique, 1856)

Veal Blanquette à la Financière in Vol-au-Vent
(Croustade – Puff Pastry Shell – Puff Pastry Pie – Garnished Puff Pastry – Puff Pastry Basket – Filled Savory Pastry – Bouchée à la reine – Puff Pastry Timbale)

According to Urbain Dubois & Émile Bernard (La Cuisine classique, 1856)

Garnish and Presentation in Vol-au-Vent

The veal blanquette à la financière in vol-au-vent stands out by its elegant and festive presentation: the rich and creamy preparation is served inside vol-au-vents, small hollow puff pastries, which provide a textural contrast and a sophisticated touch.

Composition of the Vol-au-Vent Garnish:

• Tender veal pieces coated in a smooth white sauce.

• Classic garnishes: button mushrooms cooked “à blanc” (without coloration) and peeled glazed pearl onions cooked “à blanc” to preserve their delicacy and whiteness.

• The rich and festive financière garnish, depending on the season and availability: sweetbreads, blanched cocks’ combs and kidneys, lamb tongue or brains, and fresh truffles either grated or sliced thinly.

All components are gently combined and served hot inside golden puff pastry vol-au-vents, just before service.

Traditional Accompaniment

The vol-au-vent version is often complete on its own, but it can be accompanied by classic and simple white pilaf rice or steamed potatoes, which complement without weighing down this haute cuisine dish.

Ingredients (for 4 servings)

• 1.5 kg veal pieces: breast, shoulder, neck ribs (same cuts as Escoffier’s recipe)

• 1 onion studded with 2 cloves

• 1 whole carrot

• Bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley)

• 250 g fresh button mushrooms

• 200 g peeled pearl onions

• Financière garnish (depending on season and availability):

  • Fresh white truffles (in season)

  • 200 g blanched and trimmed sweetbreads

  • 100 g blanched cocks’ combs

  • 100 g blanched and sliced cocks’ kidneys

  • Cooked lamb tongue or brains, depending on availability

• 30 g butter

• 30 g flour

• 20 cl thick crème fraîche

• 1 to 2 egg yolks

• Lemon juice, salt, white pepper

Detailed Preparation

1. Cooking the Meat

• Place the raw veal pieces in a large pot of cold water.

• Slowly bring to a boil, skimming off foam and impurities carefully.

• Add the clove-studded onion, whole carrot, and bouquet garni.

• Simmer gently on very low heat for 1.5 to 2 hours, never boiling vigorously to avoid coloring the meat.

2. Preparing the Classic Garnishes

Button Mushrooms (cooked à blanc or gently stewed white)

• Choose small or medium firm mushrooms.

• Quickly clean without soaking, then shape or slice as desired.

• Place mushrooms in a saucepan with:

  • A knob of butter

  • A splash of lemon juice (to prevent browning)

  • A pinch of salt

  • Just enough water to cover mushrooms

• Cover with buttered parchment paper or a lid to limit evaporation.

• Bring to a gentle boil, then simmer very gently for 5 to 10 minutes until mushrooms are tender, white, and glossy.

• Ensure they do not brown to preserve the aesthetic of the blanquette.

Glazed Pearl Onions à Blanc

• Carefully peel the small pearl onions.

• Place them in a sauté pan with:

  • Butter

  • A pinch of sugar (for shine)

  • A pinch of salt

  • Water just to cover

• Bring to a gentle boil.

• Cover with buttered parchment paper or a lid.

• Let glaze à blanc by letting the water slowly evaporate while onions cook gently, absorbing butter and sugar.

• Result: glossy, tender, translucent onions without coloration.

3. Preserving the Whiteness of Cocks’ Kidneys and Combs (Financière Garnish)

• Blanching:
  Cocks’ kidneys and combs are blanched several minutes in salted boiling water, then immediately plunged into ice water. This fixes their color, removes impurities and odors, and preserves a clear hue.

• Gentle Cooking:
  After blanching, sauté combs and kidneys gently in butter over medium heat without heavy browning, just a slight golden coating to avoid darkening the dish.

• Incorporation at the End:
  These garnishes are added to the sauce just before serving to avoid prolonged cooking that could darken the sauce or meat.

• Other Financière Garnishes:

  • Sweetbreads: blanched 5 minutes in boiling water, cooled in ice water, carefully trimmed, then sautéed in butter for light coloration.

  • Fresh truffles: grated or thinly sliced at plating.

  • Lamb tongue or brains: cooked in salted boiling water, cooled, then sliced thinly or cut into pieces.

4. Preparing the Sauce

• Strain the cooking broth to remove vegetables and bouquet garni.

• Prepare a white roux: melt butter in a pan without browning, add flour and cook gently while stirring until smooth and pale.

• Gradually whisk in the strained broth to avoid lumps. Let thicken gently over low heat.

• Incorporate the crème fraîche.

• Off the heat, temper one or two beaten egg yolks with some warm sauce, then gently stir the liaison back into the sauce (Parisian liaison).

• Season with salt, white pepper, and a splash of lemon juice.

5. Final Assembly and Vol-au-Vent Presentation

• Return the veal to the creamy sauce.

• Add the white stewed button mushrooms and glazed pearl onions.

• Gently fold in the financière garnish according to season and availability: sweetbreads, combs, kidneys, tongue, brains, and truffles.

• Warm gently over very low heat without boiling to avoid curdling.

Presentation in Vol-au-Vent:

• Preheat oven to 180°C (350°F).

• Place the hollow puff pastry shells on a baking sheet.

• Generously fill each vol-au-vent with the hot blanquette à la financière.

• Bake 5 to 8 minutes until the pastry is golden and crisp without drying the filling.

• Serve immediately, optionally garnished with thin slices of truffle to enhance the dish’s elegance.

6. Service

• Serve hot, accompanied by white rice, fresh pasta, or steamed potatoes.

• Optionally decorate with a few thin slices of seasonal truffle.

Important Notes

• Gentle cooking and the absence of browning are essential to preserve the characteristic whiteness of the blanquette.

• The financière garnish enriches the classic recipe, making it more festive and refined, true to the haute cuisine of the Second Empire.

• The proportions and presence of the financière garnishes can be adapted according to ingredient availability and taste preferences.