Original, Burgundian, and Revisited Escargot Butter Recipes
Iconic preparations

Escargot butter, or parsley butter, is an iconic preparation in French cuisine, particularly associated with Burgundy snails. Although the exact recipe by Auguste Escoffier is not documented, the traditional version, often attributed to Marie-Antoine Carême in 1814, remains a culinary reference.

Carême was the first to formalize this recipe in his official menus, notably during the dinner for Tsar Alexander I in Paris, where he served snails stuffed with garlic butter. The recipe contained no shallots, no lemon, no alcohol, no nutmeg, nor any additions. The refinement lay in the purity of the taste.

The Original Escargot Butter Recipe

(Marie-Antoine Carême, early 19th century)

The original escargot butter recipe attributed to Marie-Antoine Carême contains no shallots. At that time, classical French cuisine aimed for balanced flavors and clarity in preparations. Carême’s escargot butter is based on a fundamental trilogy:

Ingredients:

• 125 g unsalted butter (or lightly salted according to old sources)

• 2 to 3 cloves of garlic, finely crushed

• 1 small bouquet of flat-leaf parsley (leaves only, finely chopped)

• Salt (if using unsalted butter)

• Ground black pepper

Preparation:

1. Work the butter at room temperature until it becomes soft and spreadable.

2. Crush the garlic in a mortar until almost creamy.

3. Finely chop the parsley with a knife.

4. Mix the garlic and parsley into the butter. Season with salt and pepper moderately.

5. Blend well to obtain a smooth, aromatic but balanced butter.

Traditional Burgundian Version (with shallot)

Unlike Carême’s original, the traditional Burgundian version of escargot butter, as prepared in Burgundy since the 19th century (and popularized in bistros at the start of the 20th century), includes shallots. This is one of the hallmarks of regional cooking, which likes to blend garlic and shallot to balance strength and sweetness.

Ingredients:

• 250 g unsalted butter

• 3 cloves of garlic

• 1 shallot

• 40 g fresh flat-leaf parsley

• Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preparation:

1. Let the butter soften at room temperature until it reaches a spreadable consistency.

2. Peel and remove the germ from the garlic cloves, then finely chop them.

3. Peel and finely slice the shallot.

4. Wash, dry, and finely chop the parsley.

5. In a bowl, mix the softened butter with the garlic, shallot, and parsley.

6. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

7. Mix until the preparation is homogeneous.

8. Shape the butter into a log using plastic wrap and refrigerate to firm it up.

This escargot butter can be used to garnish Burgundy snails, oysters, mussels, or mushrooms. It can also be frozen for later use.

Chef Recipes: Revisited Escargot Butters

Anise Escargot Butter – Chef Gilles Goujon’s Version

Ingredients:

• 350 g salted butter

• Juice of one lemon

• 1 cl anise-flavored alcohol (e.g., pastis or anisette)

• 20 g finely chopped garlic

• 20 g finely chopped shallot

• 50 g finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Preparation:

1. Whip the butter: Work the salted butter at room temperature for about 10 minutes until light and airy.

2. Incorporate ingredients: Add lemon juice, anise alcohol, garlic, shallot, and parsley to the butter.

3. Mix: Stir vigorously for 3 to 4 minutes until the mixture is well blended.

4. Use: This butter can be used immediately to garnish snails, oysters, mussels, or other shellfish. It can also be stored in the refrigerator for later use.

Gourmet Escargot Butter – Chef Alain Ducasse’s Version

Ingredients:

• 250 g butter

• 2 cloves garlic

• 1 shallot

• 40 g parsley

• 20 g Paris mushrooms or cep mushrooms

• Olive oil (quantity as needed)

• 30 g smoked ham

• 2 g Dijon mustard

• 10 g white almond powder

• Fleur de sel

• Freshly ground pepper

• Juice of half a lemon

Preparation:

1. Finely chop the garlic, shallot, parsley, mushrooms, and smoked ham.

2. Work the butter into a soft paste.

3. Incorporate the Dijon mustard into the butter.

4. Gradually add the chopped ingredients and the white almond powder.

5. Season with fleur de sel, pepper, and lemon juice.

6. Mix carefully to obtain a homogeneous and fragrant preparation.

This version is ideal for accompanying refined dishes.

Variations and Tips

• Maître d'hôtel butter: similar to escargot butter, but with the addition of lemon juice and sometimes mustard.

• Storage: Butter can be kept refrigerated or frozen.

• Usage: Besides escargots, it can accompany meats, fish, vegetables, or be used for gratinating shellfish.